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The Rome Church Tour

A chronicle of my journey during my three days in Rome, Italy alone, with no phone or camera. Since visiting the churches is my favorite part of Italy I decided to visit as many as I could in the time I had. And so it begins…

Rome, Italy May 14, 2013

Today I visited churches:
-First Santa Maria degli Angeli, the last architectural work of Michelangelo.
-Second, I revisited Santa Maria Maggiore, which was more impressive than I cared to remember. It was also very busy dure to its location near Termini station. Not sure of the box on display under the main altar? I’ll have to research that.
-The Opera house does not do daily tours, but I could have easily walked pas the box office if the door was apparently open.
-On the way to the Pantheon I stopped in Sain Ignazio di Loyola, there were a lot of interesting things in this church, notably the people buried, silver hearts everywhere, and the haunting crucifix with bones placed underneath. This church had the most impressive fresco on the front ceiling.
-The Pantheon was a church/is a church, now I understand why it is free. There were so many people in there! I hope it is as packed during service! The dome was stunning with the sunlight highlighting one of the minichapels. It was almost like the dome was an optical illusion with the inverted squares.
-I found it dissapointing to walk toward so many ‘churches’ who’s doors were locked or were actually converted to government buildings.
-St. Paul Within the Walls, noticeably a church but once I entered noticeably NOT Catholic! How random! Anglican Episcopal. Luckily they had panphelts in English so I could get some history behind the church which belongs to the European Convocation of American Episcopal Churches of the Anglican Communion. Built in 1873 by designs of George Edmund Street and host an impressive mosaic which gives the church recognition by the Italian government as a national monument. The stained glass windows is what initally gave the churches non Catholic status away.
-Last church of the day, Basilica San Vitale wasn’t as expensive, not crowded at all due to its downstairs entrancee and brilliantly painted with all the features the other churches actually had!
-Thinking about a movie tonight, need to see if I have an email back about some other activities. Maybe do some more research on these churches after hitting up the grocery.
-The night ended gloriously. I was able to purchase a 22eu ticket to se Del Potro, Federer, and Serena play and that was a dream come true. I was also able to see the Olympic arena that is very old yet very active! Even while the ATP even was going on there was water polo and gymnastics in full swing.

May 15, 2013
-Another late start but glorious. Had to find another hostel to spend the night in, but was luckily able to find one with out too much hassle and a little help.
-I decided to hit up 2 more churches before I head over to the gym. I found Basilica di San Clemente online and was surprised it was so small. Though it is 3 churches in one, I will not be paying 5eu to see the underground churches. Enough with the ruins already!!! 😉 This is probably the smallest basilica with the finest pews. I enjoyed the crazy mosaics and the marble alter the best.
-Basilica Santa Maria Dominicana was also quaint and very reconstructed with parts of the original structure still showing.  Much of the upper wall was frescoes of frames and trimming, while he ceiling told a grand story through its wood carvings. This church looks like it gets a lot of use though I sit alone with two other passer-bys. The mosaic in the front dome is marvelous, colourful, and depicts Santa Maria surrounded by the angels. Above the dome seems to be Jesus surrounded by the 12 disciples with one angel on each side of Him.  The mosaic is impressive but I find myself staring a the detail of the carvings on the ceiling. Exquisite. I don’t see any dead bodies either.
-Basilica San Paulou (outside the walls) known for where Paul was imprisoned and actually having the chains on display. A tight race here between San Giovanni and San Pietro in the Vatican. High ceilings, frescoes, a picture of every single pope, and an alter that is as stunning in its simplicity as Saint Peters has in its gradour size. Undoubtedly my favorite part of this basilica is ‘outside’ its walls in the main entrance garden where the most stunning golden mosaic can be seen on the roof. I also love the doors, carved wood depicts Saint Paul’s journey. In many cases I see why the pope at time leave the Vatican to preach here.
-Basilica San Giovanni Laterno is most impressive and my new favorite in Rome. I am most attracted to the twelve disciples make of 12ft of marble. I sit under San Joannes as I write. There are no pews only stackable chairs in the pope church. The altar is the most stunning piece on display. The disciples all have carved depictions of Jesus’ story about their heads and the detail in the depictions is outrageous. I thing what challenges me the most with this church is finding out who they carved resemblance of the disciples from! John looks so young, Thomas looks wearily similar to Zeus, Bartholomew quite handsome. I would also like to get a valuation on how much gold is located in the ceiling. The frescoes seem more cherished here as all are framed. For some reason I can’t help but get emotional in this church. I keep repeating to myself, “the streets are paved with gold.”
-Having late lunch at a random spot by Termini. Reasonably priced, but we will see how the pasta tastes. Gnocchi again and I think they are crafting the sorrentina flavor just for me.  It has a nice tabee of authentic Italians. Even though it looks like a craphole from outside, its rather nice inside.
-Great time at Stella Azzura Academy in the afternoon.

Thursday, May 16, 2013

-Two more churches to close out the day. San Maria Popolo struck me as cozy but distinguished. There is no telling how may people are buried in this structure. In one of the chapels it has the most beautiful work of Michelangelo Messi’s “Saul’s Conversion”. Its display is not a centerpiece, but the crowd naturally turns their heads to the right wall where is hangs. A busier church off the metro. I’m not sure why I discovered this one so late. I have to now that San Maria is definitely black (and so is Jesus) according to the well lit painting on the marble alter. The life size crucifix of Jesus also portrays him to be RATHER dark skinned. LOL This might be the only church in Rome where there is much more stone than marble on display. There also aren’t many restricted areas.
-In a similar dome shaped church like the Pantheon, San Maria Dei Miracoli is a small version with a much more impressive marble altar.  While the altar is the most ‘fancy’ thing in the church there are several crucifixes and frescoes.  This church, though flooded with tourists is clearly used, there is even an open bible in the front of the church.
-Made it to the last stop on the tour just in time for closing. Chiesas Luigi dei Francesi. I was able to get a walk around and see the grandeur of everything covered in marble.  The biggest attraction yet again was the frescoes, Renaissance style that highlighted the main chapels.
-After a long sit in the church, I headed back to the hostel and an African guy stopped to compliment me on my hair and beauty.  He quickly stereotyped me as being African and not American. He said Black Americans often wear too much make up and wear weave instead of showing their natural beauty. It made me think of what people (Italians) may have been thinking when they saw me… Though I really didn’t feel like chatting I definitely felt like passing time. Turns out Robinson changed the Italian governments perspective on immigration when he was blacklisted and his papers were revoked after he had been granted citizenship. He wanted to own his own business and opened it up in the ‘wrong’ area which put him on the hot seat with local Italians. Then all of a sudden his citizenship papers could not be found…as in none of the papers that he had ever filed with the Italian government could be found! Wow. After a well written letter to the president (sent to the media), the scandal was exposed and things changed in immigration for all foreigners. The random people I meet.

A great time in the eternal city…can’t wait to get back!

Published in Faith My Bucket List Personal Travel

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